Travel Week: Days 5 & 6

Following the overnight train back to Bangalore, we began what was supposed to be a 4-5 hour van ride to Ooty. However, as it always seems, India is full of surprises. A friend of our coordinator mentioned a parade  to celebrate Mahatma Gandhi's birthday beginning shortly after our arrival in Bangalore. So, with as much energy as we could muster, the search for the parade began. I found myself surprised looking around the streets as we sped along because all of the shops were closed. There weren't even blocked off sections on the infamous M. G. Road (Gandhi's initials). It took much questioning of our driver, government officials, and random persons on the sidewalk to come to the following conclusion: this "parade" was not, in fact, a parade; instead, it was a decoration ceremony and the small park dedicated to Gandhi and only government officials could be on the grounds. Without further hesitation, we gladly loaded back in to the A/C van for our next destination.

The second surprise along the way was a significant detour due to construction. This probably added one to two hours of our total journey as the nicely paved road was blocked off and an impromptu, awfully maintained dirt/rock road was its alternative. The one bonus of this road was a nice restaurant we discovered around 10:30am. Initially it was intended as a bathroom stop but, per usual, we were hungry. Teas, toasts, and eggs covered the table before we knew it! And to top it off, there were individual huts over each table providing a natural air conditioning.

The final surprise was the border issue between Karnataka and Tamil Nadu (the state Ooty is in). Tamil Nadu is known for having issues with sufficient water, even after monsoon season. According to articles we later read, Karnataka was mandated to give Tamil Nadu a massive amount of water. Karnataka refused to give the full amount, which was causing much conflict between the two states. As a result, any Karnataka registered vehicles couldn't pass into Tamil Nadu and vice versa. Keep in mind this wasn't simply affecting tourists like us. Deliveries of perishable items were kept at the border for up to 4 or 5 days! If a delivery could not be transferred to a truck of the other state's, it was stuck there until the issue was resolved. Well, we were no exception. After waiting 45 minutes and making frantic calls to taxi drivers in Tamil Nadu, a swap was arranged. While it was unfortunate to tack on yet another hour of travel, we crossed borders in a truly amazing area: a tiger reserve! We essentially went on a free safari tour on perfectly maintained roads. There were no tiger sightings, but plenty of elephants, monkeys, peacocks, and cows.

After re-loading our bags and settling in to new vehicles we made it in to Tamil Nadu What a vast difference in scenery! We went from tropical with palm trees to urban to mountainous and cool within 24 hours. Being that the roads wound up and down mountains, there were tons of switchbacks, making for an overly curvy ride. There was no way I let myself feel any motion sickness, however, because this was a constant view:

See the staircase-like lines in the hills? That is how tea is
grown in this region.

I was nearly in a state of awe our entire trip from the border until arrival at King's Cliff Hotel. A beautiful British/Shakespeare-themed stay complete with working fireplaces and a breathtaking view of the valley. And, for anyone looking to get a taste of India but with a more New England climate, Ooty is your hill station! I would love to visit this place again in the future because it was truly one of a kind.

Each night, not only was our fireplace lit, but
complimentary hot water bottles to keep in
bed were offered.

The sitting area.

Breakfast was served in the glass house each morning.

Or, if you want to eat breakfast outside, this is your view!

I was shocked how cool the evenings got (50-55 Fahrenheit) but it was a welcome change to my 4 months of summer weather. After settling in and bundling up, we headed to dinner at a delicious restaurant in the center of town. Here we met with a former Manipal University professor who would take us to visit two local tribes the next morning. He has spent several years studying tribes in this area and has developed a strong rapport. This is important because otherwise, we would not be allowed to spend time in the tribe. We cozied up in bed shortly after eating and called it an early night.

Breakfast was bright and early at 7:30 am but certainly worth losing sleep over! While there was regular Indian items, the amount of "typical" Western foods made for a special treat. From croissants to chicken sausage (for all of those who didn't know, I'm no longer pescetarian) to cornflakes - yum :-) A very welcome change in routine indeed.

Around 8:30 we left for the Kota tribe. Roughly thirty minutes away, the roads we took wound smoothly through tea estates, pastures, and forests. Our arrival drew the attention of all the members as they greeted us with huge smiles. It was such a beautiful day - crisp 70 degree air, blue skies, and incredible scenery. The Kota tribe is a group known for their pottery and artistic abilities. Additionally, they hold many beliefs unique to their tribe. For example, there is a special root a woman uses to style her hair once she starts her menstrual cycle. From that moment on she must wear that root given to her every single day until death. It is believed if a woman feeds her husband or children without the root in place the family will experience bad luck. Here are some photos from our visit:

A skilled craftsman shows us musical
instruments and a cane he crafted out of
a single piece of tree root.

The root a woman wears in her hair each day.

Here the root is in place.

Several of us tried using the wheel. It is much
harder than it looks!!

Tired from the sun, we took refuge in the A/C bus and re-hydrated before visiting the second tribal community: the Tora. This community is known for embroidery and a rock-lifting tradition for young men. Historically, young men had to lift a rock of  sometimes 100 kg (220 pounds) or more and roll it over his shoulder to prove fitness for marriage. These days this practice is simply for fun but the boys were eager to show off their strength. Another unique aspect of the Tora community is they worship buffalo. Two temples on their land are dedicated to the buffalo. Only the priest is able to enter the temples during a very specific time of the year. Otherwise, no person may come too close to the tribe. You also must remove your footwear from a far distance of at least 200 or 300 feet. A few of the girls in my group joined the young men for a game of soccer while the rest of us admired embroidered fabrics and played with two very cute little puppies!

Photo credit: Miranda Fadden

Temple 1

Temple 2

Once we got our fix of puppies, we headed to a wonderful lunch in the middle of town. Rather than an Indian restaurant, it was Chinese - and it sure was delicious. The rest of the afternoon we had to ourselves for shopping or relaxing. I spent most of my time with Erica and Moira as we wandered through the streets and poked in to shops here and there.

Two more bonuses about Ooty: they are famous for their tea and chocolate. Let me say that again. Tea and chocolate. Everywhere.

Every 2nd or 3rd shop either sold or was entirely dedicated to each. It's safe to say I got my fix of goodies that afternoon. It was so difficult to decide which ones to purchase. Because of that, we had many samples. One store owner was so generous I left feeling as though I had eaten an entire meal! Dinner that evening was average, except for dessert - sizzler brownies. You know how fajitas come on an unreasonably hot cast iron plate? Same idea, except add a giant brownie, ice cream, nuts, and chocolate sauce.

Photo credit: Alexandra France

I think it's safe to say Ooty was my favorite stop so far. Perhaps it was because of climate which reminded me of home. Regardless, I had a wonderful time and hope to return in the future!

Next stop: Fort Cochi